Assembly instructions for PS3 Mo

1 – 100K pot [volume] (or greater 200K,250K,1meg… board mount trimmer or panel mount)

2 – LEDs for earlights White or Blue (for other colors, use 150 ohm for R2 and R3)

1 – LED for gunlight (any color other than white or blue, we don’t want to overload ESP chip)

1 – MicroSD card (32GB or less, you’ll probably only use a couple hundred Megs)

1 – Speaker (any tiny speaker will do, mine was 2 in, 1 inch would be adequate)

2 – pushbutton switches N.O. SPST 4 pin (you could any style buttons if you connect by wire)

I had to make extension cables to be able to plug ear and gun LEDs in without removing battery deck. Include the following:

I had to make extension cables to be able to plug ear and gun LEDs in without removing battery deck. Include the following cables:

Sockets (Female 2.54mm pitch 40Pin Header Socket Single Row Connector Strip)

Cut to size, for 8 pin length, pull out 9^th pin with needle-nose. Score both sides with knife and snap apart.

This connects to a connector that I forgot to include on version 1 of the PCB. See instruction below for adding it.

For the motors, we need close to six volts. I am using 5 AA NiMH cells housed in a 4 battery and a single battery holder connected in series(4 batteries seem to work ok). This connects via a 4 pin connector.

(single shaft if possible or saw off inner shaft so motors can sit close together)

Version 1.0 of the PC board does not have a spot designated for the 3 pin servo connector.

Run a wire on the top side from GND to D3. (black wire) USE A LONGER WIRE THAN I DID. YOU MAY HAVE TO MOUNT MORE COMPONENTS IN THIS AREA LATER

On bottom side bend the end of D3 wire and solder to E3.-à servo plug black or brown wire

On the bottom, run a wire from EX3 to E5(outer pin)(yellow wire)--à servo plug white or yellow

I used Arduino IDE v2.3.4. If you are using an earlier 1.x version of Arduino, you can install the newer version and your old IDE will remain usable. The icon for the new version will be square.

It can take a while to install the new IDE. When you first run it, many more files will download. You may have to allow some programs to run with the filewall when prompted.

Important Update Required! 05/21/2025

Recent updates to the Arduino 2.X.X IDE have broken the ESP32-PS3 library. Fortunately there is a fix.

eyr1n from Japan has submitted a github link with the update.

or you can do this:

a. Open File Explorer and browse to DOCUMENTS-->ARDUINO-->LIBRARIES-->PS3_Controller_Host-->SRC

b. Rename ps3.c to ps3.old

c. Download this file and drop it in the SRC folder: ps3.c

Current Arduino sketch for ESP-32

Dalek-Ps3_motor26mp3_r2.zip - R2D2 sounds added

Dalek-Ps3_motor24mp3MAC.zip - choose from 2 controller MAC addresses

Dalek-Ps3_motor23mp3Servo.zip - servo code added

DISCONNECT YOUR 5 VOLT SOURCE OR USB CHARGE BRICK BEFORE CONNECTING ESP32 TO YOUR PC FOR UPLOADING!!

Starting version 26, the version will output to the IDE serial monitor (115200 baud) so you can know what sketch version is loaded.

Once the sketch is loaded, you will need to install the PS3 controller library. The easiest way of installing the ESP32-PS3 Library is to use the Library Manager in the Arduino IDE.

Just open your Library Manager (TOOLS-> MANAGER LIBRARIES) and search for “ESP32-PS3”, and it will show up. Use the Install button to add the library to your local library collection.

Many thanks to (jvpernis) Jeffrey van Pernis and others involved with the creation and maintenance of the ESP32-P3 Library

More about this library at these links:

https://dronebotworkshop.com/ps3-esp32/

https://github.com/jvpernis/esp32-ps3

To pair your PS3 controller with the ESP32, you will have to make one change to the sketch.

Use this sixaxis pairing tool referenced in the dronebotworkshop link above to find or set the MAC address of your controller.

Find the following line in the sketch and update it with your MAC address.

Ps3.begin("00:1f:81:00:02:50");

If you have trouble uploading the sketch, try the following.

On some versions of the ESP-32 dev board: To program the ESP-32, you must hold down the little BOOT button after the code compiles when you see several dots “. . . . . “. When upload starts, release the button.

high resolution schematic

The 3d printed portion of this Dalek is based on a project by WintermuteAI.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6903354

https://www.instructables.com/Remote-Controlled-Dalek-Doctor-Who/

We had to upscale the 3d prints by 121% to make the TT motors and wheels fit.

Here is our custom file for a TT motor mount: new-motor-mount29.stl

(print this part actual size)

Align wheels with holes in base and drill mounting holes

(Wheel slots may need widening with a knife)

Here is the PC board shelf: pcb_deck08.stl

(print this part actual size)

Here is the battery shelf: battery_deck12.stl

(print this part actual size)

Sound files

Load these mp3 files on a MicroSD card (32GB or less, you’ll probably only use a couple hundred Megs).

The mp3 files should be placed in a folder named “00” (that’s zero zero)

minidalek-sounds-V2a.zip

I suggest also storing any other files related to this Dalek build such as 3d print STLs, build instructions, schematics, a copy of Arduino IDE install files, etc. on the MicroSD card so you can find them later.

Hack #2 - This only applies to PC board version 1.0

Power connection and switch hack

I forgot to add a power switch. Up to this point I was plugging and unplugging the USB and AA batteries each time. This was very inconvenient and a risk to the delicate USB connection.

We are adding a 5 pin connector with pin 4 removed for 5v connection and a 2 pin connector for an SPST switch that will cut shared negative connection of the 2 power supplies. I am also adding a diode D1 to protect from reverse power connection.

Diode cathode (side with line) in C1.

Diode anode in C5.

2 pin connector in A3 and A4 (I used yellow)

5 pin connector with pin 4 removed in A7 thru E7 (I used red)

On bottom of board, connect wire from diode C7 to 5V (near 4E) (red wire)

On bottom of board, connect wire from pin 4 of motor power to A5 (green wire)

On the bottom, bridge A7,A6,A5,A4 with solder and a thin piece of wire (sorry)

On the bottom, connect E7 (pin 5) to diode C5

On top, connect wire from GND (near 6A) to A2, on bottom of board, bend wire and also solder to A3

5 volt power connection

You will need to make a cable from your 5 volt supply to the 5 pin connector.

I cut an old USB cable and spliced it to a 5 pin female cable. Negative to pin 1. Positive to pin 5.

Plug or glue hole in pin 4. I used a dab of epoxy and pressed it in the hole with a popsicle stick. Tape over the other pin holes and side hole of pin 4 first. I left the unconnected wires from pins 2 and 3 in the connector for strength and a tighter connection.

problem solved 6/28/2025

It looks like this Dalek likes a 2 amp power brick more than the 1 amp. With a 1 amp power pack, sometimes the ESP-32 reboots while moving and playing sound at high volume. I'll try fiddling with capacitors to see if I can remedy this. THE REBOOTING IS LIKELY DUE TO THE SERVO. I'll check on that in the future.

1 amp is probably ok! Capacitor seems to solve reboot problem. Also make sure that power brick turns on automatically and you don't need to press a power button.

Hack #3 - Capacitor on DFplayer Mini

Finally, here it is, a fix for the random rebooting.

Unexpected power dips caused by the DFplayer have been messing with the ESP-32.

You will need a 1000uf capacitor rated at least 6.3 volts. This will be hooked up to the VCC and GND pins of the DFplayer.

For PC board V1.0

On bottom of PC board, scrape off some paint. Make sure that there are no traces where you are scraping.

Tin the exposed copper with solder. Solder positive capacitor lead to pin 1 as pictured. Solder negative to your scraped area. Optionally use dab of E6000 or doublesided tape to hold it in place.

For PC board V2.34

Solder in the other components before doing this hack. We don't want the cap to block them.

Install the capacitor in the 3 hole area near pin 1 of the DFplayer. Make sure the negative lead marked with the minus(-) is in the center hole and positive lead goes to the lead marked 5v. The cap can be mounted on the top or bottom of the board. It seems to fit well on top of board, under the DFplayer. Optionally use dab of E6000 or doublesided tape to hold it in place.

How do I keep these loose fitting Dalek body sections together???

We may have a better solution in the future

I drilled a hole(it took 2 attempts) straight down through the front of the core section just missing one of the under support ribs and used a piece of 8-32 threaded rod. On the top battery deck I drilled a hole that lines up and put in a screw with long nut or threaded standoff (so you can take off the threaded rod and not poke your eye out).

You will also notice the wires with pin header soldered on. I had to extend the LED connectors because they are impossible to access when the skirt is stacked on the base.

The new version 2 PC board has arrived!

Smaller, more compact board. Bottom side silk screen with parts list, connector IDs, polarity and voltage labels. Pin connectors for pushbuttons

No more sloppy hacks! (Not yet, but there's space if we need to.)

Power switch

I am moving my power switch from the battery deck to the bottom of the Dalek. It's too difficult opening the Dalek each time to turn it on and off. I will use a slide or tiny push button switch when I find an appropriate one.

Another typical MacGyver moment during DroidCon 2025, I temporarily re-mounted the switch in one of the hemisphere holes using a paperclip and expired giftcard.

- - - - -

I found this push on/push off switch in my junk box, probably a turbo switch from an old pc.

More details and pictures coming soon...

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